UNDERSTAND ARGENTINA

SALTA-TUCUMÁN: THE LEGEND OF THE GIANT CACTUS

2011-11-05T13:53:00.000-07:00

Legend has it that the giant cactus in the valleys of the Argentine northwest, especially on the way to Amaicha of the Valley are indians who, having been turned into plants, still watch over the valleys and foothills. Their vigil ensures the happiness of the inhabitants who will never again be disturbed by strangers looking to conquer their lands.

But it is a tragedy that turned the indians into plants. During the conquest, the Inca, seeing that the Spanish were dominating and tormenting its people sent chasquis messengers to the four points of the empire to organize troops and thus mortally wound the invaders.

Warriors set up lookouts in key points where the conquistadores would pass, waiting for the order to attack by surprise, but their orders never arrived since the chasquis had been captured, then the Inca was captured, tortured and killed.

While they waited in vain, the valiant indians watched in disbelief as the european troops passed them by, and still no orders to attack. Time passed and, desolate, they held their posts … .

The merciful Pachamama (Mother Earth) induced in them a gentle sleep while making them part of Her, and so the sleeping warriors´ feet became part of the ground and Mother Earth covered them with thorns to protect them while they slept.

Legend has it that, even today, these stoic warriors wait for the command that will never arrive.

***

The photos above are from Amaicha del Valle, the most pure indigenous community in Argentina. The aboriginal peoples settled in Amaicha some 7,000 years ago. It was in the 1700s that the Spanish officially acknowledged them, after a ferocious defeat by the Diaguita and Calchaquí tribes. The community is located at 2,000 meters, in the neighboring province of Tucumán, just south of Salta.

The giant cactus was photographed at the Los Cardones National Park, in Salta.

Amaichans say: "The sun is always with us." And this is a fact. It never rains there; the sun shines 360 days per year.

Pachamama and her warriors are always watching.

LOS TORDOS RENTAL COTTAGES in VILLA SAN LORENZO

2011-06-27T13:34:00.000-07:00

Five minutes from "downtown" San Lorenzo, three blocks from this, our first paved street, is the lovely property of Los Tordos (The Blackbirds) a large, cozy place with two rental cottages that delight visitors from all over.

The garden was designed by the owner, Ms. Green Thumb, who´s presently away traipsing the world. It sure keeps me busy -- the garden, I mean.

The galeria, my favorite spot in the whole world. I have coffee here every morning. After checking emails, I move the office outside and hang out with the birds for the rest of the day.

The little pool is called a tanque australiano or australian tank. The kids love it.

Bishop´s House is a spacious cottage with master bedroom and an extra bedroom with 4 beds. The cottages come complete with cable TV, Wi-fi, heating, full kitchen, and large bathroom.

The grill in the galería of Bishop´s House. Many a bbq has been enjoyed here.

The Cave is a smaller cottage, with a double bed and a single bed. It has its own patio with grill.

Another view of the pool and gardens.

There is great information and wonderful videos about San Lorenzo in saltaonline.com.

VILLA SAN LORENZO AND LOS TORDOS (THE BLACKBIRDS)

2011-06-20T06:15:00.000-07:00

(Photo courtesy San Lorenzo Chamber of Tourism and Commerce)

www.sanlorenzosalta.org.ar

With the coming of the winter holidays, I´ve begun a new series of stories about Villa San Lorenzo, our little paradise in the Andes foothills.

(Photo courtesy San Lorenzo Chamber of Tourism and Commerce)

At 14 km from the city of Salta, San Lorenzo began as a holiday spot for wealthy Salteños who built marvelous colonial homes with gargantuan gardens, swimming pools, even horse stables.

Over time, San Lorenzo developed into a quaint little village of traditional adobe homes, shops, cafés and restaurantes. Progress has been relentless -- today we have 3 paved streets and an ATM.

Los Tordos (The Blackbirds) is a large property with a traditional salteño family home and rental cottages in the back.

The blackbirds take over the garden every morning and evening, and they are so tough, they kick the sparrows and finches out while they´re feeding. The blackbirds are quite wild. As soon as I go out to the galería, or when they see me open the tranquera gate, they fly away. It is an absolute delight to see them take off in a curtain of black and blueish hues.

This is my favorite spot for morning coffee. The galería, facing east. On sunny days, I move the office outside -- it´s a dream come true.

The cerros foothills are a stunning backdrop. Beyond them, the Andes range.

Guests love horseback riding. Only 5 minutes from Los Tordos there is a little rental place with good horses who know the terrain and can climb the hills quite well. There are many residents here who keep horses. Every evening, rain or shine, gaggles of kids go riding.

TILCARA, PROVINCE OF JUJUY - OUR NEIGHBOR IS IN TROUBLE

2011-06-04T11:06:00.000-07:00

Although this blog is about Salta, I cannot ignore our scenic neighbor, Jujuy Hoo-hooey and the ominous goings-on in its top tourist town, Tilcara.

Salteños and world visitors have developed a soft spot for historic Tilcara, and this has made it the most popular attraction in the Argentine northwest, but ... it appears that, since Tilcara was declared a World Heritage site, deed-brandishing gringos and rich Argentines are invading the town, claiming the lands as theirs, and evicting long time agriculturists and sheep herders from the terraces built by the ancient Inca.

San Francisco de Tilcara, at an altitude of 8,202 feet or 2,500 meters lies smack in the middle of the boot that is the province of Jujuy, and has about 6,000 inhabitants.

Around the 12^th century, the Omaguaca tribe settled the area of the Quebrada de Humahuaca, Oomah-waka, where they built the pucará fortress covering about 15 acres or 61,000 square meters and housing some 2,000 inhabitants in square stone buildings with low doorways and no windows. (Quebrada translates as "ravine," and Humahuaca would be the mother of all ravines.)

The pucará served as an important administrative and military center for the tribes, built complete with corrals for animals, sites to perform religious ceremonies, and burial sites.

This was home to the Omaguaca tribes.

In the late 15th century, the tribes were conquered by the Inca under Tupac Inca Yupanqui who used the pucará as a military outpost and secured the supply of metals such as silver, zinc and copper from the mines nearby.

The Inca domination of the area ended with the arrival of the Spanish in 1536, who founded the modern town of Tilcara in 1586.

With the defeat of the Spanish armies in the 1800s, the famed pucará site was forgotten.

But in the early 1900s, ethnographers from the University of Buenos Aires rediscovered the site and began digging. They collected and catalogued more than 3,000 artifacts

Since then, about 22,000 square feet or 2,000 square meters have been cleared, and some structures have been rebuilt. In 1966 the archaeological museum was opened, with seven permanent rooms displaying over 5,000 valuable historical pieces from various Indian cultures.

Among the most valuable is a fully clothed mummified body, discovered in the Atacama desert, in an excellent state of preservation.

Could this be what the deed-laden gringos and moneyed nationals want?

Do these people actually believe that they can buy themselves a spot in history while mistreating those who are history? Whom the Gods will destroy, first they drive mad.

I believe that control of the lands is a responsibility of local Mayors, activists and ultimately, the government of Jujuy, but we can all help by broadcasting the shenanigans of Tilcara.

QUÍNOA - SALTA´S NUTTY MIRACLE FOOD CAPTURES THE WORLD

2011-05-28T07:32:00.001-07:00

Recently, an excited salteña hotel owner told me that Quínoa had been served as an entreé at the royal wedding. I have been unable to confirm this, but I began reading about our “mother grain,” a daily food I often take for granted.

My conclusion: Pachamama can´t do better … can She?

Cultivated since 5000 B.C. in the Andes, Quínoa has been genetically engineered by the ancient Tiwanaku tribe of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia; harvested by the Inca with corn and beans, and brewed with millet to produce chicha, an alcoholic drink.

Quínoa was used for various medicinal purposes, such as treating bruises and sores.

Sacred rites were performed at the beginning of the harvest, with the Inca emperor breaking ground with a golden shovel. The Spanish conquistadores, determined to control the Inca, killed the crops and forbade its planting. Quínoa was forgotten for hundreds of years.

A complete source of protein and essential amino acids, Quínoa is a referred to as a “complex” carbohydrate, high in fibre. It also provides riboflavin, calcium, vitamin E and several Bs, iron, phosphorous and potassium, and is abundant in linolenic acid, the essential fatty acid said to benefit immune response. Owing to its gluten-free properties, people who suffer from allergies to common grains like rye and wheat may consume it safely.

The color of Quínoa ranges from black to brown, to red and pink. When cooked, it takes on a nutty, crunchy texture which enhances its taste.

Although the fat content is 6-7%, higher than most grains, the protein in Quinoa is unparalleled in the plant kingdom and surpasses that of beef, at 12-18%. With high levels of the 8 amino acids our bodies need, Quínoa provides a perfect dietary balance.

Quínoa is chef-friendly. Mnnnn ... paella .... there a hundreds of recipes on the internet.

BARITÚ NATIONAL PARK -- SALTA´S RUGGED FRONTIER

2011-04-07T09:42:00.000-07:00

At the very top of Salta, on the border with Bolivia there is a magical place, wild with jaguar, rich in ferns and flowers, inaccessible to most, called Baritú National Park. Such is the variety of its flora and fauna that the park has been named the "most diverse" in Argentina.

Within the park lies the community of Los Toldos where a group of local women founded the Santa Ana artisans and producers co-op to recover long-lost ancestral skills, and to develop an economic base for themselves. They´ve done well. Above is a hand-made lambswool bedspread, below a set of alforjas (saddlebags). Check out their other products in -- tejidosdelostoldos.com.ar

And please take a look at barituparquenacional.blogspot.com. They have the most tantalizing photo gallery I´ve seen in a while. Please check out those pics -- especially the one of the jaguar, that feisty feline the natives call jaguareté (cat as big as a dog).

SALTA SAYS "TSK TSK" TO THE UNITED NATIONS

2011-03-16T13:10:00.000-07:00

The United Nations has made headlines in the NOA (noroeste argentino – Argentine northwest) with a report stating that, according to the 1961 and 1972 Conventions, Argentina is not doing everything it can to end the use of coca.

In the NOA, the coca leaf is a brand, a symbol of identity, a tradition which no UN resolution can change. Quechua for Kuka, the coca plant was considered sacred by the Inca and, although only their nobility was allowed to consume it, today it is as much part of the menu as a large, juicy steak. During the conquista, coca gave the Spanish soldiers strength and energy to cope with altitude sickness, insomnia, lack of oxygen and food.

Coca´s nutritional value is well documented -- it offers a high content of calcium, phosphorous, proteins and carbs, making it a powerful nutrient, plus, it greatly aids digestion and it is not addictive. In any case, there are no coca plantations (that we know of) in Argentina. All our coca is imported from Bolivia.

On March 24, 1976, a dictatorship banned the use of coca in Argentina. At the time, my brother Andy was managing a large ranch in northern Salta which produced pineapples, tobacco and sugarcane. Every year, for the sugarcane harvest, Andy brought 5,000 Bolivians into the country.

But on that day, Andy found the men sitting in the shade. The chiefs approached him with somber faces and said, “No coca, no harvest.” Andy ran to the border police, asking for advice on how to deal with the Bolivian workers.

The Argentine police chief promptly ordered a few hundred litres of gasoline and some other Argentine items appreciated in Bolivia. Shortly after, 20 border police trucks crossed the border, delivered their goods and brought back 1,000 kilos of coca leaf.

The harvest went smoothly, as it has done since the time of the Inca.

YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT SALTA´S CARNAVAL

2011-03-02T06:53:00.000-08:00

The hottest party of the year has ended with hundreds of thousands of tourists filling Salta´s streets, bars, restaurantes; with more dance groups than ever before, and the entire NOA (noroeste Argentino -- Argentine northwest) celebrating El Festival de la Alegría (the festival of joy).

You had asked about the cost of the costumes. My sources here say costumes will cost about U$D 750. And the prizes will amount to approximately U$D 1,250.

So, I asked, how do they do it? These are not rich people.

It turns out that entire neighborhoods participate in the making of the costumes, with ladies and young women sewing, men teaching dance steps, youth and children helping out.

Every evening, starting in December, neighbors close the main street in their area and everyone gets together to practice their steps. Some neighborhoods can even afford professional dance teachers.

The seniors council decides on the theme they will represent each year.

But the key to the carnaval spirit is in the community effort. This brings unity and security to the area since it keeps kids off the streets, and the youth, for whom the social scene is paramount will be there to meet and flirt.

There is great pride here and, with everyone participating, the whole thing is made possible.

Thank you all for great questions.

SALTA CARNAVAL 2011 -- THE HOTTEST PARTY IN ARGENTINA

2011-01-31T12:23:00.000-08:00

Salta carnaval begins on February 16. More than 200,000 visitors are expected, as every year more dancers from the provinces of the northwest, as well as from Bolivia and Paraguay, join the party.

Historians tell me that carnaval came to Argentina via Spain, as a religious feast, celebrating the end of Lent.

In the XVIII century, the Governor of Salta, honorable representative of the Spanish monarchy, sprinkled flowers and drops of scented water upon certain supporters, often the young daughters of wealthy landowners.

But when Salta´s hero, Martín de Güemes, drove the Spanish back to Spain (see entry May 6, 2010 for Güemes story) the pagan natives who, for centuries, had been celebrating carnaval to thank Pachamama for life and health, crops and rain; chewing their favorite coca leaves; dancing and singing all night, and drinking chicha (maize beer) till they fell over, helped make carnaval get wilder and wilder.

Today, buckets of regular water might drench you as you gawk and sing and dance, but this is not always distressful since the weather can be very, very hot.

These days, the two-week long carnaval begins and ends with a tidal wave of music and color; in a frenzy of song and dance.

ANGASTACO, SALTA -- HOME OF COCO, THE ALLIGATOR

2011-01-25T14:32:00.000-08:00

It´s hard to believe, but the 2,500-strong village of Angastaco, at 1,900 meters above sea level has its own living, breathing alligator.

Located at 261 km west of Salta city, in the region called Calchaquí (local native tribe) Valleys, Angastaco grows fine wines, peppers, anise, cummin, cereals and fruits in its green valleys, on the edge of the river.

Condors plane above stunning red hills called Los Colorados -- The Red Ones.

This pretty little church was built by the Franciscans in the XVIII century.

Anyway, back to Coco, the alligator.

As it turns out, a local boy returning from the city, smuggled a baby alligator in a shoe box and placed it in the 1-hectare dam by the river.

The dam, by the way, is decorated with its own little island.

Eventually the dam dried out and Coco quietly migrated to another dam nearby.

Four years later, Coco returned to his lair, and there he sits today, sunning himself with jaws wide open, and causing wonder in visitors and locals.

PS : Sorry, no pics of Coco available.

SILATAJ FOUNDATION HELPS NATIVES PROSPER

2010-11-09T15:50:00.000-08:00

Since 1986, Fundación Silataj, a member of the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) has been helping the aboriginal peoples of northern Argentina enhance their quality of life. Silataj, meaning "the best" in the Wichi language, works in Salta, Formosa and Jujuy provinces with the Wichi, Chané, Toba, Pilagá, Chorote and Kolla communities.

The Foundation promotes work alternatives through crafts trade; supports artisans by encouraging them to start their own organizations, and respects and promotes their culture.

The owl mask was crafted by a Chané indian out of palo borracho wood (palo borracho means, roughly: drunk trunk. The tree grows to thirty meters, its thorny trunk often taking weird tubby shapes; sweet-scented flowers in white, pink or yellow.) The blue poncho, made from lamb´s wool, was crafted in the Calchaquí valleys. The tapestry in lamb´s wool is hand-made by the Toba natives. Wooden spoons and handbags by members of the Wichi tribe. Fundacionsilataj.org.ar

A BIT OF HEAVEN IN SALTA

2010-10-12T12:53:00.000-07:00

El Ensueño del Coquena, The Dream of the Coquena, is a pretty B&B in Lesser, near the village of San Lorenzo, 15 km from Salta.

Legend has it that El Coquena, a fierce goblin, protector of llamas and vicuñas is so ferocious that he will take the animals away from farmers who don´t treat them well.

El Coquena strikes quickly and quietly, and noone has ever seen him.

Yet farmers have heard El Coquena´s whistle, a magical call, echoing through the emerald foothills. The goblin is so mysterious, some farmers watch carefully when strangers approach, just in case they might turn out to be the goblin.

And this is why no llamas or vicuñas are slaughtered for their fur: the tiny Coquena is merciless. Instead, farmers carefully shave off the llama´s fur to make tapestries, ponchos, and sweaters. Coquena in turn, sends rain and good weather for the animals.

The B&B is perfect. Small but roomy, tidy and clean, with four double rooms with private bath, fireplace, kitchen, bbq, brick oven, gardens, right on the edge of the river Lesser. A little path lined with gladiola, leads to the river.

At this time, the shallow riverbed is dry. I walked amid stones and running water for miles.

Yet it´s the quiet that enchants, and Manchita (little spot) the minute black-and-white neighbor´s dog who visits occasionally, but won´t bark.

I think she knows everybody by now, or she may be ... you know ... a goblin in disguise.

The B&B is located near Finca Lesser, an 11,000-hectare farm of natural grasslands and dense forests, ideal for horse breeding.

At the Finca, tourists can ride for miles without encountering another person.

El Ensueño del Coquena is a dream come true.

FEAST OF THE MIRACLE -- FAITH RULES

2010-09-16T12:56:00.000-07:00

One million pilgrims renew their pact of faith with God every September, in Salta. Thousands walked 200-500 km from small towns high in the mountains, wearing "ushutas," sandals made of thin tire rubber tied with rope, and braving the cold wind. Soldiers hauled tents, army kitchens and provisions to help feed the "faith walkers" as they are called. Salteños greeted them with food, drinks, and special ointments for their cracked feet. Markets donated burgers and sandwiches for 1,200. NGOs and other agencies fed 5,000 for breakfast in Salta´s main square this morning. Hospitals remained open, but every clinic in the city was closed, since doctors had been rushed to the road, to help those whose strength flagged. Mass was held today, then the highlight of the celebrations began: A city-wide procession with images of the Virgin and the Christ on the Cross (shown to the public for the first time during the great earthquake of 1692).

MANOS ABIERTAS -- DIGNITY FOR THE POOR

2010-09-16T12:33:00.000-07:00

The founders of Manos Abiertas (Open Hands) were inspired by San Alberto Hurtado Cruchaga (Chilean priest canonized in 2005) and Mother Teresa, who taught us to help through actions more than words. A Christian organization, the foundation works to mitigate poverty, pain and need, with help from thousands of volunteers, those golden people any foundation could not do without. Volunteers were honored at a dinner in San Lorenzo, Salta. The Manos Abiertas hostel for street men in Salta provides beds, meals, plus a variety of workshops. Once people recover their dignity, hope takes over and they set out to find work, or to apply what they have learned at the hostel. “We think we give them much,” said a volunteer, “but the fact is, they give so much to us. Volunteer work is truly rewarding.” Manos Abiertas also helps mothers with nutrition, protects street children, educates young people, and builds hostels for the terminally ill. The foundation has projects in 7 provinces. www.manosabiertas.org.ar. They can be found in Facebook.

CRATES, QUAKES AND MIRACLES IN SALTA

2010-08-18T08:16:00.000-07:00

Every September, Salta welcomes 1 million faithful who wish to renew their pact of faith with God.
This story begins in 1592 when a Spanish bishop shipped a crate with a Christ on the cross, bound for Salta. The ship sank but the crate floated to the coast of Perú where the viceroy ordered it sent to Salta. Someone stored it in a sacristy, and the Christ sat here, forgotten, for 100 years.
On September 13, 1692, a 7-point (estimate) earthquake rattled Salta. Father José Carrión dreamt that if the Christ were paraded on the streets, the quake would end.
The entire city chanted along with Christ on the cross, and with the image of the Virgin, begging God to stop the quake. God listened.
On 25 August 1948, the ground shook again and people paraded the holy images, with favorable results.
Since then, millions flock to the city -- some covering hundreds of kilometers on foot, wearing the skimpiest sandals -- to thank the big Geologist upstairs; to cure their ills; to let Him know that faith rules.
The Christ on the cross lives in the ornate eighteenth-century San Francisco basilica, in downtown Salta.
Among its treasures, the basilica stores a marble table, circa 1789, built in Cádiz, Spain.

AMA SUWA, AMA LULLA, AMA QUELLA

2010-08-03T08:57:00.000-07:00

The Maiden (photo) was 15, the Boy was 7, the Girl Struck by Lightning was 6, but their bodies are 500 years old. The Inca mummies, found in a sanctuary at 6,730 m on Mount Lullaillaco, Salta, had been offered to the gods in a ceremony called capacocha (a royal obligation) in thanks for the harvest. The children were fed, given chicha, fermented maize, and placed inside the adoratorio, sanctuary. While they slept, their bodies froze and they made passage to divinity. Llullaillaco´s -30 C temps preserved their DNA and internal organs in remarkable condition.

The Maiden may be viewed at the High Altitude Archeological Museum in Salta. MAAM.org.ar.

Traditional Inca greeting: Ama suwa - do not steal, Ama lulla - do not lie, Ama quella - do not be idle.
Lots more info in saltaonline.com

AUGUST FIRST - PACHAMAMA DAY IN SALTA

2010-08-01T10:01:00.000-07:00

In Quechua, Pacha Mama means Mother Earth. Pacha: universe, time, place. Mama: mother, a female god who produces, conceives all things. They say she lives in the very bowels of the earth.

On this day people bury a clay pot near their homes, with cooked food, coca leaves, alcohol, wine, cigars and chicha (fermented sugar cane) to feed Pachamama; and they wear black and white llama wool string around ankles, wrists and neck to avoid punishment from Pachamama.

All garbage is picked up from the streets, homes are cleaned out and scented with various spices favorite to Mother Earth. This is a day to pay our respects to Her, creator of all things, because in the coming month, she may release the firewind (viento Zonda) over the entire argentine northwest.
Hopefully we´ve done well, and Pachamama will take it easy on us.

VIENTO ZONDA - SALTA´S FIRE WIND

2010-07-09T12:15:00.000-07:00

Zonda, the hot dry wind that topples trees and power lines; collapses adobe walls, drying the tears off the eyes of babies and sparking fires in the hills, originates in the South pole.
In the spring, the Southern ocean coughs up a mass of cold air which travels northward, rising to 6,000 m and slithering over the western slopes of the Andes range then, ramming down its eastern slopes on a northeast course, drying as it goes, it picks up dust in thick clouds -- a dirty wind gusting over 100 km p/hour. When it hits Salta, brush fires erupt in the hills, desiccated leaves easily bursting into flame.
The natives blame Chief Huampi (Wampee). Legend says he was a skilled hunter admired by all but, when he was crowned Calchaquí chief, Huampi´s power went to his head. “This is all mine,” he used to say, respecting no plant or animal; killing everything in his path. Pachamama (Mother Nature) took issue with his lack of respect for her work and gave him a few warnings, but he wouldn´t listen. …
An eerie whistle rang in the distance. Huampi hid in the woods, frightened. Then the wind arrived, so hot it burned the plants, so strong it toppled the trees; blowing Huampi´s headdress and weapons away, leaving the land dry and deserted. Only people and animals were spared.
They say Pachamama had the wind tied to a post up in the heavens where she lives, but cut it loose when she lost patience with Huampi, and that her anger gave the wind a human voice.
August-September is Zonda season. It comes in the afternoon and blows for a few hours, but not every day, gusting to 120 km per hour. More info www.saltaonline.com.

TASTIL - SALTA´S ANCIENT ENIGMA

2010-07-07T10:59:00.000-07:00

Here´s a partial description of an interesting piece written by Daniel Sagarnaga in Salta´s newspaper, El Tribuno.
At 101 km from Salta stood the ancient city of Tastil, at 3,200 m, the largest pre-Inca city in the region. This arqueological mystery discovered in 1903 was found bereft of its citizens, with no signs of war, thousands of objects scattered on the ground; a city abandoned as though its 2,500 inhabitants had just vanished. Could it have been an extra-terrestrial rescue?
Scientists struggle to explain the phenomenon as a rupture of the social system; others pose that the ancients built galleries deep in the Andes for people to escape the Spanish. Some blame the Inca.

Was Tastil and Andean Alexandria? In the hills surrounding its ruins there are fields with thousands of stone carvings. Their abundance assumes Tastil concentrated administrative and religious knowledge for a vast continental region, a theory supported by textile designs found there, which show the influence of the Tiwanaku (ancient architects and ingenious builders of La Puerta del Sol near lake Titicaca, Bolivia, at 3,885 m) For more info on the Argentine Northwest, check http://www.adventure-landscape.com/. Terrific site.

MARTÍN GÜEMES - SALTA´S HERO

2010-05-06T09:32:00.000-07:00

Martín Miguel de Güemes, born February 8, 1785 in Salta, became leader of the resistance to Spanish imperialism. Güemes and his gauchos, organized in groups of 20-50 men on horseback, attacked the 2,000-5,000 strong Spanish armies in relentless, lightning-fast skirmishes which demoralized the enemy to the point of retreat. While he was Governor of Salta, running low on weapons and ammo, Güemes found himself surrounded by Royalists. He forced wealthy landowners to contribute to the war effort and eventually they rebelled, plotting with the Royalists to depose him. Güemes was shot in the back in early June, 1821, but was able to reach camp and deliver last orders to his gauchos before dying of his wounds on June 17. He was 36. His men eventually defeated the Spanish and drove them out of Salta for ever.

Note: The dotted "u" in Güemes is pronounced. This is one of the few exceptions in the Spanish language.

IN SALTA, HORSES WEAR WINGS

2010-04-14T08:01:00.001-07:00

My brother Andy wears a traditional poncho at a party for a major company in Salta. The horse, clad in traditional guardamonte -- leather guards to protect it and rider from the thorny bush -- is taking a nap. They say that, when Güemes and his gauchos galloped full tilt down the hills of Salta, the sound of those vibrating leather wings frightened many Spanish soldiers away.

Today´s gaucho is a stalwart of courage, honesty, hard work and respect for the environment. When on parade, the gauchos of Salta dress their horses with guardamonte.

Every year, Salta celebrates la cacería del zorro, a symbolic Fox Hunt which attracts riders from all over the Argentine northwest.

The group has to catch a lone rider -- el zorro -- who wears a red band on his arm. In the process, competitors display their horsemanship.

SALTA´S GRILLED GOAT -- THE BEST

2010-04-05T05:54:00.000-07:00

LO DE ANDRÉS began as a little kiosk/grill in San Lorenzo, near the city of Salta.

Andrés built it up to a 50-table grill that became so popular he bought the land around it and built the events salon you see here in colonial style, typical of Salta.

Tourists always ask Andrés how old the building is, thinking it´s eighteenth-century. At times, Andy tells them the truth.
The colonial room sits 350, and when we have a product launch, we can welcome 600 people quite comfortably. This shot was taken in winter, therefore the brasero -- coal and wood heater -- outside. Further back you may see some chairs. That´s the restaurante area -- pics later. The favorite dinner menu is asado bbq meat: filet mignon, ribs, chicken, and my favorite... cabrito goat. Why goat is delicious. Goats are raised in the hills of Salta, and the meat is so lean and tender I like it better than (steer) beef. The parrilleros grill cooks -- sprinkle the meat with a tasty sauce called chimichurri and the waiters deliver it sizzling to the table. This big bbq celebrated a car company launching its latest model. We fed 680 people that night.

Waiters in traditional gaucho garb.

The meat in the fire is goat with grilled potato, chorizo sausage and other bits.

LUSCIOUS, SCRUMPTIOUS SAN LORENZO, SALTA

2010-02-02T04:58:00.000-08:00

I had a great summer break in San Lorenzo, Salta province, a green valley 10 km by car from the capital.

San Lorenzo is a place of eighteenth-century colonial homes, many in adobe, surrounded by ancient trees covered in moss and ferns and flowers so thick, in places they block out the sun.

San Lorenzo was founded three centuries ago by wealthy land owners as a summer retreat. Over time, the valley filled with modern homes, many still in colonial style, where large families spend the summer and let their children run free on the streets.

Today, San Lorenzo has been discovered by entrepreneurs who located their hotels, cafés, tea houses, boutiques and restaurants along Dávalos, the main street. As you climb the cerro hill, you appreciate the enormous capital expended to create a relaxing atmosphere, with respect for style and elegance.

This is the miracle of San Lorenzo: it is still quaint, quiet, clean and green while it fills with gawking visitors. Any self-respecting tourist cannot but tour San Lorenzo while visiting Salta.

On Dávalos lies the most popular restaurante in the valley – Lo de Andrés -- which began as a parrilla grill and developed into a gastronomic center. Fresh trout from the thundering rivers nearby, cheese with cuaresmillo, a fruit which grows only during Cuaresma Lent, and the finest high altitude wines can be sampled here every day. The meat is the best I´ve had in Salta: cabrito goat, beef and pork cooked in the open grill are particularly tasty. The pasta is fresh, the empanadas are a treat, the menu is eclectic. For dessert, I had the apple pancake al run with rhum lit up at the table, a delicacy.

Behind the restaurante is a colonial-style building which serves as a party area. Beneath its twenty-foot arches the recova will sit one hundred clients comfortably, and is particularly attractive for its constant flow of fresh air, which cold latitude residents appreciate.

A long walk along the unpaved streets of San Lorenzo helps work out all that great food and, after a long siesta--a must in San Lorenzo--I was ready to start eating again.

It must be the altitude, 1,600 meters, because I have never eaten so much in my life. They say that altitude does help with weight loss, and am not prepared to contest that.

But do not despair if you have to coke up a tad. The fact is that coca leaves are legal in Salta since a lot of people feel altitude sickness. A couple of leaves will help the heart slow down to compensate for the thinner air. Being asthmatic I suffer a great deal when on higher ground. Pale, bedraggled and breathing hard, I inquired about the coca leaf and was quickly handed a bag of leaves and told exactly what to do.

I was apprehensive at first, yet its effect was immediate. My heartbeat slowed down, the bubbles in my head fizzled out and I felt renewed. So, if you think you are going to pass out, that you cannot walk more than a few blocks without running out of breath, do take a leaf or two from the bag, split them in two leaving the stem out, roll them up and place them inside your mouth between teeth and cheek. But don´t leave them there too long, coca is acidic and may harm the side of your mouth. I also tried coca tea and felt fine. Drop one leaf in boiled water, let it steep. It works and it helps digestion.

Ummm … coca leaves are not the sort of stuff you want to take home. Remember, in most places, except for Bolivia and Salta, the stuff is illegal. So be careful, especially those who endure drug testing in the workplace. Don´t touch the stuff until your doctor tells you how long it remains in the bloodstream. If you ask anyone here, they´ll say, “Who cares?” So be informed.

Lots of info, great pics and videos on www.saltaonline.com and http://www.salta.tv/

THE ANGELS OF LLULLAILLACO

2008-06-10T17:08:00.000-07:00

Mystical Climbers

The Inca were up there for religious reasons. Aloft with their gods such as Mount Lullaillaco YOO-YAH-EE-YAHCO.

In Quechua, Yoo-yah: lie, deceit; Yah-co: water. Most mountains store water in watersheds. Lullaillaco hides its water supply in underground rivers and the Inca had trouble finding it. Ergo: The mountain that lies about its water supply.

A 6,739 m or 22,109 foot inactive volcano, Lullaillaco is one of 200 mountains in the Andes range with adoratorios or sacred places of divine power.

Nearly 6,000 smaller sites were refugios or shelters where the entourage stayed while the high priests went up to the shrine.

Forty sites are located in Salta. Twenty-seven mummies have been unearthed since some of these sites are located at 1,900 m or 6,233 feet and may be reached by car.

The children of Lullaillaco shrine is the highest place of worship on earth at 6,720 m or 22,047 feet.

THANKSGIVING

Inca children were offered to the gods in a ceremony called CAPACOCHA interpreted in spanish as: A royal obligation. Capacocha was held each year to thank the gods for the harvest and get in their good graces till next year.

WHAT IS A MUMMY?

It is a body, or part of a body with soft tissue remains that endures time. Momia in spanish.

FAMOUS MUMMIES

Lenin’s body was mummified by Stalin in a move to help keep the USSR together.

Evita: embalming her body created a myth.

Pope John XXIII worried about the quality of embalming. He didn’t want to smell bad.

GIFTS FOR THE GODS

Artesans from all parts of the Tawantisuyu participated in the creation of the extensive collection of gifts for the gods which the children took with them into the shrine (great pics and detail MAAM.org). Pottery, metals, textiles, statuettes came from different sectors of the Tawantisuyu. Seashell jewellery came from the waters off Ecuador. They bring rain.

SCIENTIFIC CARE

Paleoradiologist Doctor Carlos H. Previgliano said the mummies were placed in freezers at Universidad Católica de Salta, with thermometers hidden inside their clothing preserving not just temperature but humidity rate as well. The mummies´remarkable state of preservation came from the freezing method. Since the bodies were alive when they froze, their organs are preserved.

DNA was amplified and sequenced, surprising some by its associations with native americans.

In 1995 Johan Reinhard found Juanita, also known as The Ice Maiden, in Perú. Juanita was 14 when she died sometime in 1450. President Alberto Fujimori allowed Juanita to travel to Johns Hopkins in Baltimore, Maryland, USA for DNA testing. Scientists sent out an announcement asking for anyone from Juanita’s region -- near Cuzco, Perú -- to be tested. Nineteen people showed up but no one was related to her. Juanita was related to the Ngoge tribe in Panamá and to some Taiwanese and Korean groups.

When the children of Lullaillaco travelled to Baltimore, scientists found that they were not related to each other but when their DNA was compared with the 19 people who had checked in before, it was found that the Maiden had a descendant -- a grand nephew 64 generations later, living in Maryland.

Paleoradiology, by the way studies and evaluates ancient remains.

Paleopathology is the science that understands ancient life, customs, disease and development of disease.

Scientists performed a virtual autopsy on the mummies, (the first was in Toronto at Sick Childrens´ Hospital on an Egyptian mummy). Argentine scientists used conventional radiology for dental tests.

We leave you with a traditional Inca greeting:
Ama suwa: do not steal
Ama lulla: do not lie
Ama quella: do not be idle

We hope that you will visit the Angels of Lullaillaco at the site of the High Altitude Archeology Museum Museo de Arqueología de Alta Montaña MAAM.org.

SALTA - GATEKEEPER TO THE GODS

2008-05-29T13:08:00.000-07:00

UNDERSTAND ARGENTINA explains this remarkable nation and its often riotous, sometimes infuriating, always exciting people.

In the northwest corner of the country lies the city of Salta, perched at 1,187 m 3,894 feet on the Andes foothills; home of the Inca and the last bastion of colonialism; a city freed from Spanish oppression by a battalion of fearless gauchos riding down the hills, their horses´ protective leather gear flapping in the wind and making an unholy racket. Legend has it that when the Spanish governor heard them coming he simply gave up.

With its well-preserved eighteenth century look, Salta has become a haven for tourism, welcoming millions of visitors to its great hotels and restaurants; taking their breath away with its enigmatic landscapes, and showing off the world´s most exciting archeological find: the Angels of Mount Llullaillaco, three Inca mummies preserved in sub-zero temperatures for five hundred years. One of the mummies, The Maiden, is shown at the High Altitude Archeology Museum (MAAM.org).

To the Inca, the mountains are gods. To appease their gods, the Inca sacrificed beautiful, flawless children chosen from their vast empire.

The children were paraded 1,500 km or 932 miles from Cuzco in Perú to Salta in Argentina for all the citizens of the Tawantisuyu, as the area was called, to see them and cheer them on.

Eventually the children were placed inside adoratorios sanctuaries on the mountain. There are more than five thousand Inca sanctuaries threatened by plundering, mining and seismic activity.

In 1999, Doctor Johan Reinhard with a National Geographic arqueological expedition unearthed the bodies of three Inca children from a sanctuary at 6,730 meters or 22,080 feet on Mount Llullaillaco. The Boy was 7 years old, the Girl Struck by Lightning was 6, the Maiden was 15. Their bodies are 500 years old.

While they slept, the children were placed inside the sanctuary, surrounded by gifts for the gods. As their bodies froze, the children joined their ancestors -- guardians of the empire´s villages, cattle and crops. The children never died, the Inca believed, they made passage to divinity.

Llullaillaco´s -30 degree Celsius or -22 degree Fahrenheit temperatures preserved the children´s DNA and internal organs in remarkable condition. Scientists have apologized for plundering the sanctuary; they have pledged respect for Inca traditions, and regard the mummies as a gift to the world.